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Post by captiank on Jul 6, 2007 11:47:25 GMT -7
Ok, so I need a couple questions answered if anybody can help. i'm new to this game and only a half assed good at auto mechanics.
I have a 98 jeep Cherokee with a 4"5 short arm suspension lift from Rock Krawler
I recently lost a wedge that was between leaf springs and my axel, making the U-bolts loose and letting that rear wheel slide along the leaf. With all that movement, It ripped out my rear shock and blew the axle seals.
So, This "wedge" is long gone. is it important to replace it with similar wedge to keep the axle at a tilt? or can i just throw some scrap metal in there until its approximately the same size and tighten it down? My u-bolts are unmovable, so I'll have to cut them off and put new ones on...
Also the rear shock. All that broke was the connecting bar through the top part of the shock, I could try find someone to weld a washer on it or something but I think its easier just to get a new shock. Now, with the 4.5" lift, what type of shock do I need. Do I have to get it from Rock Krawler or is there a Crappy Tire brand. will a generic Jeep rear shock do? whats compatible and whats not? Do I just get a normal shock thats 4'5" longer..
And with the axle seals.. Is all I have to buy is new seals or are there other parts that need to be replaced with that? I think I got decent directions on how do to it, but not entirely sure on all the parts I'll need. Just the new seals and a read diff gasket from draining, right?
Any help would be appreciated
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Post by BigoldJeep on Jul 10, 2007 12:35:35 GMT -7
Hey there, and Welcome. ;D Reading your post, it doesn't sound like it looks very fun under there! It seems you caught it early enough though, and it could be worse. Yes the 'wedge' or spring perch must match the one missing and the one on the other side. The perch sets your pinion angle for the drive shaft and locates the axle properly and securely under the vehicle. The remains of the old perch need to be cleaned up and a new perch welded in it's place. The u bolts should be replaced and the spring inspected for broken/bent leafs. Regarding the shock; it sounds like the yours have a 'pin bar' at the top, a small tube with forked ends these are relatively easy to find and replace. Watch for badly dented shocks, if you decide to replace them do both. Keeping the shock body length the same dimension is all thats required, if the shock body is too long it will bottom out at full compression before the bump stop does. Too short and it will limit axle down travel as it won't extend as long. Different shocks mount differently so it needs to match your mounting style and be the same length. Axle seals and bearings: Axles are very easy to pull or a little tougher depending on which axle you have. Once the axles are out a press is usually required to install the new bearings and keeper, which is a part of the seal replacement. Quite a few us have done this more than once, I pull the axles myself and make a run to The Gear Center and have the new goods pressed on. I expect you have a Dana35 PM me or call at 799-7606 and I'll be happy to help out, lend a hand or have a look. Curious who did your lift and when, did they rotate your axle up etc, could talk to them about warranty? Rock Krawler is pretty good they may also cover the shocks. Regards, Kris
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